Garrett Turbo

WaZe asked:


Ok all you long term mechanics out there, here’s a little brain teaser for your fun and mine! I want to know what kind of numbers, guessing, my engine will make after i finish my engine building. Also cost wise for machine work and installation of parts. I will try and give you as much info as i can! Just looking for ideas of what to expect performance and cost wise. (already have all parts listed, just need installed and machine work) Looking to tune with Highest “SAFE” boost level which should be no problem with the sleeves and forged internals. Everything else not listed is Stock. (crank, valves, head, etc.) 1994 Honda Del Sol S

1.6 Liter B16a2 DOHC VTEC engine. swapped in =)

INSTALLING (need price guestimations for all work)

Darton MID sleeves 81mm bore (need to be installed all engine work: blueprinting, bore, sleeve press, hone, etc) <--Big $$$ guzzler lol
JE 10.1:1 forged pistons with Eagle H beam Rods
Brian Crower Stage 2 turbo cams w/ vtec lobe (465:290 intake 450:292 exhaust valve lift degrees: Duration)
Supertech Dual Valve Springs with Titanium Retainers
Skunk2 Pro Series Adjustable Cam gears (+/- 10 degrees)
AEM Fuel Rail with Fuel Pressure Regulator
RC 550cc Fuel Injectors
ARP Head Studs
Vision Racing 10mm low resistance spark plug wires

ALREADY INSTALLED
Disk brake conversion in back and larger front breaks (all with steel break lines, soon to have slotted rotors)
180amp rebuilt Napa alternator (as opposed to the 75amp one i got with the swap lol)
Tokico Illumina Adjustable coil overs with lowering springs (lowered only about an inch)
Strut bars both in front and rear
Skunk2 Short shifter
Skunk2 Rear Lower control arms
Skunk2 Megapower 3'' Catback exhaust Straight piped to turbo down pipe
Garrett T3/T4 Turbo (57mm trim i think not positive. advertised up to 35lbs boost capable)
Cast Iron Log Manifold
38mm TIAL Wastegate with custom to atmosphere dump tube
GReddy Type S Bov with 5lb spring (will upgrade for new tuning)
Small/Medium Intercooler from Elli USA (air cooled)
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Hondata S300 ECU management

(currently pro dyno tuned at 5-7psi boost maxing stock 240cc injectors running rich making just under 200hp and 180tq) Tell me what you think and feel free to ask for more info if i have forgotten anything. Also what do you guys think so far of my project car? Body is all stock with OEM Black paint. And suggestions for next parts to add to it? Quaife LSD? MSD ignition and distributor maybe? Probably a front camber kit? what you all think? Thanks!!!
lol at the time the b16 (i had a d15 automatic before, so new engine, tranny, and conversion) was what i could afford and ever since i have stuck with it and made it mine!!! lol so i will continue to stick with it. And i dont even feel boost till up in the rpm range. The stock b16 made almost 170 before the turbo so really not a huge gain lol. . looking for one my next trip though lol
ViperKilla- lol i already have ALL parts i have listed purchased, i just have to install. Was thinking having everything installed by the local performance shop here after getting the sleeves put in by their machinist just to do it all at once. Was looking for a price estimate on Machining and installation of parts. I will probably do the Fuel rail, spark plug wires, and other external straight forward additions myself. But internals i might as well have done right, which unfortunately isnt me.

SoCal - Yeah I am not yet going to replace the clutch because it was replaced when i did the swap and i know its not worn so it will hold up some. But in the near future i am thinking an ACT stage three or higher 6 puck clutch. As for your info this is my best guess. Its a brand new OEM 3layer head gasket with the copper middle (just purchased from a honda dealer) The total displacement is 1,595 cc, again the bore is going to be 81mm, stroke will be around 77.4mm. Till i upgrade the clutch an
also im not sure about deck clearance but i was told it should be near stock because they are flat topped. And as far as flywheels go, im only looking at 10lbs or higher, probably an 11lbs one. I dont want anything ultra light because i want this to maintain its daily driveability as best as i can (hence just getting the flat pistons instead of dish ones to use with boost. I hear that it just makes it harder to tune with boost than with dish pistons, and at the end of the day i keep my pre-boost acceleration and power.
lol i found this in my paper work, is this what your looking for? "installed height 33.5mm" is that what youre looking for in deck height clearance? or is it actually the space between the piston and the deck height when at top dead center?
not sure why it cut off half of my second additional details but it should have finished "till i upgrade the clutch and stuff i will be boosting only 15-18 psi on a pro dyno tune. Does this sound about right for a safe aggressive tune on the forged pistons and rods/sleeved cylinders/ stage2 turbo cams with dual valve springs. Also i was told by my local performance shop that my crankshaft should be fine, just have it polished and balanced. And i wish i could do the port and polish but i will already be maxed out for this stage with the install of all this and a pro dyno tune. "

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Jake S asked:


just got my hands on a turbo…its just the turbo…nothing else…do i need both a wastegate and blow off valve? do i need any special connectors ? i have a m4 turbo by garrett ar48
im only planning on pushing 4 psi for now im just wanting to know what connectors i need to connect the waste gate and blow off valve…

Kansieo.com

Adam Korman asked:


My 1997 Ford Escort has a SPI2000 SOHC 2.0. I was wondering what would be a safe amount of boost when turbo’ing the engine. Info/kits are difficult to find so this is a project to do myself.

I do happen to have a Garrett TD05H 16G turbocharger in good working order. If this is up to the task, I will use it. Otherwise, I will find something more fitting. I also have a compact intercooler that will fit well and have already cut exhaust flanges to match the turbo I currently have.

The TD05H 16G’s standard wastegate supposedly allows for pressures up to 14 PSI, but, from my reading, 10 PSI is more accurate. Changing the wastegate can allow for much higher boost out of this particular turbo.

Also, suggestions for what kind of BOV to use would be greatly appreciated.
I see a lot of “get a different car” and “that car sucks”. I won’t argue, it does. However, that’s not the question. This is the car that will be worked with. It’s a project of mine. I want some opinions about how to “properly” turbo the thing.

Create a video blog…instantly.

Vikram Kumar asked:


Speed and power are two of the most highly desirable qualities in racing cars and high-performance sports cars. More power, more speed, more excitement, more danger seems to be the motto of car owners who install a turbocharger and a turbo kit in the engines of their most prized earthly possession. And why not? Cars are as much a personal statement of who you are and what you stand for as clothes and personal adornments do. If a turbocharger installed in your engine will further stress the point then purchasing a turbo kit is the best decision you will ever make in your automotive career.

But before embarking on the very important and radical decision to purchase a turbo kit, which gives you the right to boast that your car has a very expensive turbocharger, educate yourself about the pros and cons of these high-tech thingamajigs. If you think that a turbocharger can enhance your macho image (well, it does), then you had better brace yourself for the physical and financial demands the purchase and installation of a turbo kit requires from anybody.

Technically speaking, a turbocharger is a turbine-driven forced induction compressor powered by pressure from the engine’s exhaust system, to quote the ever-reliable Wikipedia. If that is still too technical a definition for the common layman, a turbocharger simply converts a waste product, in this case exhaust or air, into more horsepower and therefore more speed. Think of it as recycling with a powerful purpose; if you are an environmentalist who likes hard and fast drives, a turbo kit would satisfy both your likings. A turbo kit, on the other hand, is composed of the turbocharger itself, the exhaust manifold, the wastegate and blow-off valve, the oil supply and the intercooler. But I digress. The pros of having a turbocharger installed include attaining more power (and again, more speed like the Batmobile or the Knight Rider) with the same engine volume. Also, a pre-configured turbo kit is smaller and lighter that other forced induction systems like a supercharger and it is easier to install. Even if you are not using your turbocharged car for its speed, you can still benefit from better gas mileage. Now, the environmentalist in you would love this feature. However, the cons in a turbocharged car include over-steering and under-steering, as well as wheel spin; these are factors in most fatal car accidents. A turbo kit can be very expensive, too. This is not even taking in the cost of maintenance as extensive upgrades are often necessary. Furthermore, the complexity of the technology can cause do-it-yourself headaches. Besides, you need a dyno machine to make sure that everything is working perfectly. Thus, taking on a DIY turbo project is best left to experts.

Fortunately for us automotive idiots, there is Vivid Racing to tell us about turbochargers and turbo kits. It is a company in Chandler, Arizona famous for its aftermarket modifications to cars, with services such as exterior and interior works, painting jobs, electronic car products, engine parts and a whole line of turbochargers and turbo kits for almost every car make and model imaginable, among other products and services. Vivid Racing can take care of finding the right turbo kit for your car, its installation in your car (with dyno testing) and the maintenance necessary to keep the turbocharger in tiptop shape.



Tyson

LeSSeNDz asked:

on flow Across core S13 Koyo radiator w/custom endtank, outlets, mounting *holds 4x amount of water “made in china” eBay turbo manifold custom flange added to manifold for Tial38 wastegate Izumi Spec Garrett Turbo T28/T3 hybrid Greddy intake manifold 720cc top feed injectors Custom Fuel Rail to align mounting points.. Autronic SMC 420+whp @ 1.6bar 100% STOCK LongBlock enjoy!!! … SR20 S14 custom Blitz v-mount Endless Garage nissan drift Autronic Samco Koyo garrett turbo greddy SR20DET Drift …

Rodney

Dave Page asked:


Installing a turbo kit in your car will indeed add to its value but what good does it get if after a week of installing the kit, it breaks down? Turbochargers are there for the main reason that you want a faster and more efficient car. These turbo kits are costly and you do not want them to be breaking down on you, not because of factory defect, but because of personal neglect by the car’s owner, also known as you.

There are ways and tips to follow in order to keep your turbo car in tip top shape. A healthy turbo has enough oil for lubrication and cooling. When thinking of a turbo car, oil is probably the most important factor that can affect the way your turbo operates. Regarding oil issues, you have to take note to use only synthetic oil for your engine. The reason for this is because these oils are undeniably better at withstanding thermal breakdown. Of course this is important as you already know that turbo engines have the tendency to operate at very high heat. Oil change for turbo cars must be done every 2500-3000 miles as oil breaks down and get dirty fast. Another important thing to do is to check the oil level often since the engine is exposed to a lot of strenuous conditions, pressure and excess heat. Also, you have to remember to let the oil cool down before turning off your car. You can do this by letting the car stay idle for a period of time. This is done to avoid damage to the turbo bearings and oil lines. Still in connection to the importance of oil, make sure that the turbo bearings are well lubricated before starting the engine especially after an oil change.

The tips mentioned above are the most common advice that are to be followed when maintaining a turbo car, but there are a lot of supplementary advice that can also be used to maximize the performance and lengthen the life of your turbo car. First, is to make sure that the wastegate signaling hose is not hardened or cracked. Another tip is to make sure that the throttle position sensor (TPS) is working properly. Cleaning the throttle body is also a way of maintaining your turbo car. It is advisable to clean the throttle body every 30,000 miles. To help maintain your turbo car, make sure that the tires do not go bald because it will have a deteriorating effect on the suspension. Especially that you have a high powered turbo car, you do not want to go through potholes and fall hard because of poor tires and suspensions. Changing the air filter every 10,000 miles will contribute to your car’s maximum performance. The timing belt also has to be replaced every 40,000 miles for optimum turbo performance. More importantly is to make sure that your turbo system and your car stays cool and one way to do this is putting a switch in line with the air conditioning fan for you to use in bad traffic or in long drives.

There are a lot to consider when maintaining a turbo car, which is just right since a turbo car needs special attention as it is not like any ordinary car. A turbo car is engineered to excellence that is why maintenance is very important to preserve its performance.